Busan: Where the seaside enlivens the senses and nourishes the soul

The waves crash against the wall of the temple, so close I can smell the salt as I walk past a large stone statue of Buddha. In South Korea, most temples are in the mountains, which is one of the things that makes Haedong Yonggungsa Temple in Busan so interesting, perched amongst the rocky shore of a small bay. To explore the complex founded in the 14th century, I'm climbing through caves, over small bridges, up rock-hewn stairs. The views are not just of the ornate halls, but of the oceanic expanse beyond them.

The temple is a microcosm of what you'll find when you visit Busan. Most South Korean cities are inland, including the capital Seoul, a glitzy metropolis fashioned with style and culture. But the country's second-largest city embraces its natural beauty. Busan, as a port city, has always been more laidback, more real. The water is a part of everything. It long brought trade and is now attracting new international visitors who quickly discover there's just as much soul here too.

Walking south for a couple of kilometres from Haedong Yonggungsa Temple, I reach Songjeong Beach, one of the more relaxed stretches of sand in Busan, with racks of surfboards available for rent across the road from restaurants and low-rise hotels. This is also the starting (or finishing) point for the Haeundae Blueline Park, a five-kilometre long redevelopment of old railroad facilities that's become one of the most popular parts of the city for visitors.

How to explore it? It's an important question because there are three main modes through the park. I choose to walk, taking the path that hugs the water before heading along clifftops and then through gorgeous forest and dappled sunlight. Walking allows me to enjoy more of the details along the way, like the locals collecting and drying seaweed for sale (I'm not tempted). A highlight is the Cheongsapo Daritdol Observatory, a free elevated walkway jutting 70 metres out over the ocean, 20 metres high with a disconcerting transparent floor that I tackle more gingerly than needed.

Another option would've been the Haeundae Beach Train, regular faux-vintage electric carriages that glide along at 15km/h and stop at six stations. Costing about $8 one way, it's a good option to effortlessly see the coast, but the more popular (more 'grammable) choice are the Sky Capsules, small private cabins that creep along a 10-metre-high rail above the old train tracks. The unrestricted views over the pine trees and wooden boardwalks do come at a price - about $40 one way per cabin - and they only cover half the park.

Reaching the end of the park, forest turns into groves of urbanity at Haeundae Beach, the most popular in South Korea, where huge glass skyscrapers and long pedestrian malls give it a Gold Coast vibe. The water gets a bit too busy for comfort in the peak of summer but there's lots to see in the area, including the Busan Museum of Art and the more contemporary-focused Radium Art Center.

But for more of nature's masterpieces, pop a few kilometres further south to the Igidae Coastal Trail. Compared to the relatively flat path at Haeundae Blueline Park, this is a real hike, parts of the path on dirt or rock, wooden staircases sometimes bolted onto the cliff face. It's slightly surprising to find in the middle of a big city. You could almost think you were on a remote island if it wasn't for the striking views of Busan's skyline.

Conveniently, because you're not anywhere remote, it's also worth doing a slight detour from the Igidae Coastal Trail to see the nearby Busan Museum, as well as the UN Memorial Cemetery, the only one of its kind in the world, where 2320 graves of the fallen from the Korean War are set in beautifully landscaped gardens.

Land, sea, and air. That's what I discover at Songdo Beach, one of the most interesting coastal stretches of Busan. On land, Songdo Beach is calm and family friendly, a wooden boardwalk across the sand adding to the slightly nostalgic atmosphere of Korea's first public beach (officially opened in 1913). From the sand, I walk out over the sea, along the Songdo Cloud Trails. This 365-metre elevated path curves around to an island and then extends even further for glorious views. And the air? You'll get that from the Busan Air Cruise, a cable car that goes from beside the beach, across the bay for more than 1.5 kilometres. You can even choose a 'Crystal Cruise' where the lower part of the cabin is transparent to add a bit of a thrill. (What is it with all these scary floors?)

READ MORE MICHAEL TURTLE:

Up the hill inland from Songdo Beach is the Gamcheon Culture Village, a colourful hillside neighbourhood full of art pieces that's become one of Busan's busiest attractions. But for an alternative, walk across the 1.8-kilometre-long Namhang Beach to Yeongdo Island, where you'll find the Huinnyeoul Culture Village. Set amongst woods on a sloping hillside, this small artisan neighbourhood evokes comparisons with the Greek islands. Up and down staircases, you'll find murals, cafe terraces, and heritage installations. If you've got the energy, it's also the start of the three-kilometre Jeoryeong Coastal Walk through the rugged terrain of a former military reserve.

In a city of more than three million people, there's no shortage of other things to do in Busan, from serene mountain temples to bustling food markets. But you'll see a lot of them in other parts of South Korea anyway. Here, it's the coastline that I find the most dazzling part of South Korea's second city. Not only for the landscapes, but also for the variety of ways you can experience them. It's laidback, it's real, and it's so close, you'll smell the salt.