You're in safe hands when your resort is owned by a fifth-generation Fijian

It takes a bit of an effort to get to Royal Davui Island Resort. Once we land at Nadi International Airport and are greeted with a blanket of snug humidity, we have to take another 30-minute flight in a small aircraft to the Pacific Harbour airstrip on the main island's south coast. That's followed by a short van transfer to a nearby jetty, from where it's about 45 minutes to the resort in a speedboat through rather choppy waters during our commute.

But one look at the resort from the speedboat - my face awash with the salty Pacific - and it's all worth it. Located on a minuscule four-hectare island in Beqa Lagoon, Royal Davui is the picture of paradise, with just 16 hut-shaped villas peeking through lush foliage, small creamy beaches descending into gin-clean waters and a gorgeous jetty under which baby sharks are skittering in every direction.

As we step into the resort's foyer - with a soaring cathedral-like roof - we're greeted with broad smiles: two dozen, to be precise. Every staff member on duty is here humming Bula Maleya - the welcome song, as waves crash on the rocky shores, leaves whisper in the breeze and handmade necklaces are handed out to the just-arrived guests.

But of all the first impressions, it is the sight of the resort owner, Chris Southwick, that's most remarkable.

In a sea of multinational hotel chains, this boutique Fijian hideaway immediately stands out for its personal touch. Chris is a fifth-generation Fijian and - along with his US-born partner, Grant Seylhouwer, lives on site, and personally welcomes and sees off every guest who comes and leaves these shores.

"Here you go," he says as he hands us chilled coconut water. "You've had a long journey, but now all you have to do is relax." And just like that we know we're in safe hands.

At the centre of Royal Davui stands a mesmerising banyan tree - simply walking around its enormous trunk, under the dense shade of its lofty branches, is enough to slow down the time.

No one really knows how old it is, but it's safe to assume it goes back many centuries, because when the resort embarked on a multimillion-dollar revamp earlier this year, every time they dug into the ground, they found its roots weaving through the earth - throughout the island.

"They were even cradling the swimming pool, when we started digging," says Grant as we thread our way through the resort's palms, beach almonds and other banyans.

By the time I arrive at the resort, I can't see the roots, but I can see the fruit ... of the revamp, that is. My sprawling east-facing villa comes with a high-ceilinged bedroom, a separate living room and a stunning outdoor deck with a plunge pool of its own.

Floor-to-ceiling windows in both the living area and the bedroom mean the entire space is awash with natural light. But so cleverly has the villa been tucked into the natural landscape that - while I can savour 180-degrees water views from my bed - I know no one can see me from outside. Well, not unless it's a curious frigatebird, eyeing those fat cookies the staff has left me with a lovely welcome note.

The new and improved gorgeousness continues in the resort's open-plan bar and restaurant area, too, where oversized chandeliers inspired by the waterfalls of the nearby Beqa Island and art pieces featuring local frigatebirds compete with panoramic sea views, stretching all the way to the horizon.

It is here that we enjoy some exceptional meals from a menu that changes every 24 hours: line-caught tuna with pickled cucumber and wasabi for lunch; Fijian lamb curry with roti and coconut sambal for dinner; and a sorbet with pineapple, lime and - hold your breath - Sichuan peppercorns - for dessert.

It is also where we enjoy the resort's signature banana bread, which to this day uses Chris's grandmother's recipe. "There are two ingredients that make it so good - Fijian vanilla bean, which you cannot find anywhere else in the world, and salted butter," Chris says. "Never ever bake anything with unsalted butter - it's a waste of time."

Four days are just not enough at Royal Davui. Between leisurely meals, massages at the onsite spa, pre-dinner kava ceremonies with the staff and an excellent ceviche-making demo by chef Joji, time simply flies. Yet, we manage to squeeze in two excellent activities beyond the resort.

Vivid marine creatures - from glistening blue barcheek trevally to striking yellow Bennett's butterflyfish - dazzle the daylights out of me as I snorkel over a vivid coral reef in Beqa Lagoon one afternoon.

But it was a picnic brunch on a tiny cay without any manmade structure or foliage that really blows my mind.

"This is an island that appears and disappears with falling and rising tides," says Grant as we approach it in the resort's speedboat. While Grant and Chris unfold the beach umbrellas, set up the bean bags and dish up sliced fruit, freshly-baked pastries and mimosas, I go on a little circumnavigation of the island.

My feet are in the warm shallows with myriad shades of blue shimmering around me when - all of a sudden - I notice a David-v-Goliath clash high up in the air.

Read more on Explore:

"That's a big frigatebird chasing a small tern," Chris says. "It's traumatising the tern so it regurgitates its catch, so the frigatebird can catch it midair and feed itself."

It's a common sight on these islands, Chris says and adds: "But this is the first time I am actually seeing it unfold."

It is the first time I am seeing anything like it, too. What a way to wind up the Royal Davui experience.

Getting there: Qantas, Virgin Australia and Fiji Airways offer direct flights between Nadi and Australian east coast cities such as Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane. qantas.com; virginaustralia.com; fijiairways.com

Staying there: Minimum three-night packages in a Lagoon Plunge Pool Bungalow start at $6158 per couple and include all meals; use of non-motorised water-sport essentials such as kayaks, stand-up paddleboards and snorkelling gear; and resort activities such as cocktail tastings and cultural kava ceremony.

Explore more: royaldavuifiji.com

The writer was a guest of Royal Davui Island Resort.