North star: Top-notch digs in the Top End

DON'T swim in the water, they warn us. Avoid walking on the beach. Watch out for snakes. This may not sound like your typical welcome to a luxury lodge at the top of Australia. And looking out at the bay in the afternoon heat, it seems cruel that its turquoise waters and white sandy beaches are off-limits. But it's not surprising. This is Arnhem Land after all - a unique expanse that stretches across more than 97,000 square kilometres in the Northern Territory - and here, the land and wildlife rule.

To be more specific, we're at the Seven Spirit Bay lodge on the remote Cobourg Peninsula, part of the Garig Gunak Barlu National Park, about 200 kilometres north-east of Darwin. Named after the seven Aboriginal tribes that once inhabited the area, the property is one of six wilderness lodges across Cape York, the Kimberley and Arnhem Land. And it's spectacular.

Firstly, it's the natural beauty of the land. The azure waters that glisten in the Top End sun, the rocky cliffs that rise before you in striking palettes of reds and yellows, the green wilderness that surrounds it all.

Secondly, it's the abundance of wildlife that adorns the landscape. The heavily built buffalo that roam the bushland, the white-socked banteng that graze beside the mangroves, the elusive Timor Ponies and Sambar deer that run free.

Thirdly, it's the myriad marine life that inhabit the pristine waters. The saltwater crocodiles that are easily mistaken for submerged tree branches, the manta rays that dance in formation just beneath the surface, the turtles that glide effortlessly through the open seas.

But it's more than this. It's the feeling of calm that this property evokes; the sense of peace that washes over you as you unplug, relax and reconnect with nature that will take your breath away and leave you wanting more.

"It's hard to have a bad day when you get to look at this," Erin admits as she pours me a drink in the bright and airy lodge, named Wawidada, or land of many water holes. She is, of course, referring to the stunning Coral Bay, which the elevated lodge overlooks.

But you wouldn't be amiss in thinking she was alluding to the nearby lagoon pool, fringed by swaying palms and frangipanis, or the well-tended gardens with their manicured lawns and lush, tropical plants.

For Phil, who collects us from the private airstrip - did I mention that this place is only accessible by air or boat? - it's the dynamic nature of the area, which has nurtured 60,000 years of Aboriginal knowledge and customs, that's most fascinating.

"It changes so quickly and so dramatically over a year,'' he says as we make our way from the affectionately signposted Seven Spirit Bay international airport - nothing more than a red dirt runway and timber shelter - to the lodge.

It's a short, but scenic ride with as many twists and turns, bumps and dips as the terrain itself, but Phil manoeuvres the open safari 4WD expertly while describing the area's rapid transformation.

"We're only five days out of the wet season and already the vines are thinning and the flowers are blossoming," he explains. "In a few more days, all this green grass will be gone. It doesn't take long."

But don't be fooled by the wild introduction to this property. Luxury awaits eager travellers. Accommodation at Seven Spirit Bay comes in the form of 24 secluded villas called "habitats", unobtrusively positioned throughout the tropical forest to take in the water views.

King beds with fresh white linen are the centrepiece of each hexagon-shaped habitat, while thoughtfully designed bathrooms exude elegance with double vanities, marble benchtops and spacious showers.

There is no Wi-Fi in the habitats so guests really are encouraged to check out when they check in, but rest assured, amenities such as air-conditioning, ceiling fans, daily servicing (including a complimentary laundry service) and minibars provide the level of comfort expected for their high-end price point. Private timber decks also offer ideal vantage points to take in the sunrise, watch wallabies forage in the surroundings or just sit and have a cuppa after a day of exploring.

Speaking of which, there are plenty of activities, led by enthusiastic staff, for guests to immerse themselves in at Seven Spirit Bay. From nature walks and wilderness safaris to historical tours and fishing expeditions, unforgettable experiences are guaranteed on land and water.

If you're lucky, you might even be treated to an impromptu wildlife show when you least expect it. Ours came during a tour of Victoria Settlement - a historic site at Port Essington, where from 1838-1849, the British government attempted to establish a defence post on Australia's northern coast.

As we waited for the tide to edge our boat closer to shore, a trio of manta rays appeared to wave at us from the water, while a white belly sea eagle circled the blue sky above, showing off his impressive wingspan and adept flying skills.

Later, as we devoured freshly prepared chicken wraps and icy drinks - both as welcome as the sea breeze following our two-hour hike through the uneven bushland and settlement's ruins - a croc emerged from the water, reminding us of the forewarned dangers lurking beneath the surface.

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Fishing is a must in these parts and Seven Spirit Bay caters for not only serious anglers - the property actually operates as a dedicated sports fishing lodge during the months of March, April, October and November - but also for guests who may be dropping a line for the first time.

Guided tours are offered daily with expert guides taking care of everything from baiting your hook to filleting your catch in readiness for the chef to plate it up - trust me, you won't have eaten fish this fresh before. And while I can't give you any advice for landing a trophy fish, here's a hot tip: hang around the jetty while the fish is being cleaned and watch for the lemon sharks.

Just don't go in the water.

Getting there: Seven Spirit Bay is only accessible by private air charter or by boat from the Black Point Ranger Station. The flight from Darwin is about 45 minutes and costs $545 per person return (May to September).

Staying there: Book your stay at Seven Spirit Bay and enjoy four nights for the price of three. Single rates cost $2055 per night or $2595 for twin/double (May to September). Rates are fully inclusive of all meals and activities.

Explore more: sevenspiritbay.com.au; journeybeyond.com

The writer was a guest of Journey Beyond.