Food fiesta: This European city is punching above its weight

I was one of those fussy kids. Me and vegetables did not get along and while my mother did her best to cajole, beg or bribe me to eat them, it was all to no avail. I thought back to those nightly battles at the dinner table when tucking into multiple courses at a vegan restaurant in Graz, Austria. She would have been amazed.

The restaurant is Geruchtekuche and the chef - Michael Wankerl - has been awarded two toques (akin to hats) by Gault & Millau in 2023. There is no menu, as Chef Wankerl prepares a feast depending on what is growing, ripe and harvested in the Styria region. Nothing is wasted, with Wankerl using the whole plant, fruits, flowers, greens and roots. There is course after course, several featuring root vegetables with various accoutrements that have been pickled, fermented or preserved.

Graz, the capital of Styria, is all about local food. There are 300 farmers in the city, the most of any urban area in Austria, and that's before you add the farms dotting the landscapes around Austria's second largest city. The farmers concentrate on quality for the fruit, vegetables and vines that grow here - there are no large agricultural farms churning out produce. Nowhere is this more apparent than at the farmers' markets.

We wander through the oldest and largest market in Graz, the Kaiser-Josef market on Kaiser-Josef-Platz Square opposite the superb Graz Opera House. Farmers arise at a sparrow's you-know-what to pluck their home-grown goodness, before setting up at the market. We buy local Isabella grapes, strawberries and ask about a peculiar lettuce with faint red edges. It is the Graz Krauthauptel lettuce - known locally as the "aristocrat of lettuces". It is grown by 100 Graz farmers and is packed with vitamins. There are shops around the fringe of the market, selling locally produced cheese, vibrant flowers and at GenieBerie cafe, enjoy a coffee as you peruse the menu, curated daily from produce bought that morning.

Another day we visit Lendplatz market, which is on the trendy and emerging right bank across the Mur river. Locals are filling baskets with fresh baked bread, cured ham or fresh sausage, flowers, fruit and veg. No wonder picnicking is a thing here.

Wandering around this gorgeous city with its red tiled roofs, intriguing courtyards and bike-riding locals, we come across all kinds of goodies. At Gut Schlossberg, in the shadows of the famous tower and former castle, we find more than 1000 products from 100 small producers from all over Austria. You can try the products in the tasting room, or taste some over lunch on the gorgeous terrace. We have stunning platters of fresh cheeses, fruit and squash as well as a divine pumpkin pasta with Graz's ubiquitous pumpkin seed oil drizzled over it.

We stop in the Frankowitsch delicatessen to check out its traditional spread sandwiches, visit Waldherr Bakery, the first wholegrain bakery in Austria, and call in to Mosshammer Butchers. Josef Mosshammer is the king of barbecue, running workshops to share his grilling secrets. He knows where all the animals he uses were born, where they lived, where they grew up and what they ate. He makes his own barbecue sauce, condiments and during COVID-19, set up a vending machine outside so his customers could stock up on meat and sauces. He makes vegetarian options as well.

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We tuck into an incredible Middle Eastern feast at Hummel, with our table covered with tapas-style plates. Close by we find Gscheft, a shop and cafe that sells Styrian products, with each item stating how far the producer is from the shop. We also go to 'S Fachl, where producers can rent a space to showcase their products - everything from jewellery and wine to pumpkin treats.

And because it wouldn't be Austria without a strudel, we treat ourselves to one in the most exotic cafes in town, the Murinsel. Made with local apples, of course.

The Styrian Armoury

Dating back to 1642, the armoury houses the largest historical weapons arsenal in the world in its original building. It is fascinating, with 32,000 objects including armour, firearms and cannons, staff and edged weapons, bullet moulds and powder flasks stored on four floors.

The Schlossberg

A castle topped this hill overlooking the city. Napoleon could not breach it, but when he defeated the Habsburgs he demanded it be destroyed. Thankfully, locals paid a ransom to save the clocktower. The Schlossberg is a must for great views. It is accessed either by a funicular, an elevator from a tunnel underneath, or walk up 260 stairs. To get down, you can take the slide!

The Kunsthaus

Called the "friendly alien" by its creators, the Kunsthaus (Art Museum) is a rather different art museum on the banks of the Mur. Its silvery blue exterior with "nozzles" that give it a dinosaur look, is quite striking, and inside, it houses exhibitions of art and photography. Don't miss the outlook from the viewing platform up the top.

The Island in the Mur

Commissioned as part of the city's role as European Capital of Culture in 2003, this is an architectural gem. Its swirling oval shape sits in the centre of the river, connected to both banks by footbridges. It has a cafe which is well worth a visit. The best view of the Murinsel (pictured) is from the Mursteg pedestrian bridge.

The Old Town

Spend a few hours strolling the Old Town - a UNESCO World Heritage site - taking in its beautiful buildings, courtyards and arcades off streets like Herrengasse. The Mausoleum, the Landhaus (with its quirky double spiral staircase carved in 1499), the Painted House and Glockenspiel Square (where two figures pop out a window three times a day and dance) are spectacular. Trams are free within the city centre.

Getting there: Graz is an easy 2.5-hour trip by rail from Vienna, or slightly less by road. See oebb.at/en

Staying there: Parkhotel Graz dates back to 1574 and has been in the Florian family for three generations. It is centrally located right opposite the Meran Park, has a restaurant, bar and spa. Rooms from $162. See parkhotel-graz.at

Getting around: Graz is a very walkable city and the trams are free in the historic city centre.

Explore more: visitgraz.com; austria.info

Helen Hayes travelled courtesy of the Austria National Tourist Office