Try stopping at one visit: why Penang is irresistible

It wasn't deja vu, that strange kink in time and space which tricks us into believing we've lived this moment before. It was an actual memory, more than half a century old, loosened and sent bubbling to the surface by the sight of the cruise ship tied up at the pier and the ancient cannons of Fort Cornwallis ranged out to the Malacca Strait.

I had indeed been to this Malaysian island before. It was 1967. The P&O ship - the Orcades or Oriana, I can't remember which - had docked in Penang on its way to England. My mother had booked a passage to India - most of us still travelled by sea back then - and Penang was the second stop in Asia after Singapore.

For an eight-year-old boy fresh from the cold of a Canberra winter, Penang was ideal - warm, breezy, bright, friendly and exotic. All these years later, I remembered pleading with my mother to stay as we made our way back to the ship, its trademark fawn funnel a temporary landmark guiding passengers back to the gangplank.

That desire to stay must have lodged deeply because I've returned to this island on the western side of the Malay Peninsula many times since - and still can't seem to get enough of it.

The climate, the food, the heady blend of cultures, the beautifully preserved colonial and Chinese buildings in UNESCO World Heritage-listed site George Town make it the perfect destination to dip toes into the Orient.

These days, it's leisurely cruise ships not liners which tie up at the pier, disgorging passengers eager to sample Penang's delights. For most it will be a tiny but tantalising bite of the feast. They'll arrive at dawn, disembark, take a rickshaw ride through George Town, and if adventurous savour lunch in one of the excellent and scrupulously clean hawker food markets.

Some might venture further afield, perhaps taking the funicular railway to the top of Penang Hill to enjoy its cool air and soaring views over the island. They'll note that much of Penang beyond George Town is highrise - modern and sparkling.

But they'll also pass more than a few grand old bungalows in various stages of restoration. Other passengers might visit the Spice Garden or spend an hour at the beach at upmarket Batu Ferringhi.

And, at day's end, when they're back on board, dining on seared salmon and salad nicoise as the ship resumes its journey and the lights of the island retreat in the distance, some will realise - like I did as a child - that you can't "do" Penang in a day. The memory will lodge, Penang will get under their skin and they'll yearn to return.

The island's magnetic charm has been attracting visitors ever since it was acquired by the British East India Company in 1786, two years before the First Fleet arrived in Australia. It grew into an important trading post along with Malacca and Singapore. With the British came Chinese merchants, labourers from India, joined later by Armenians. And in its darkest chapter, Penang was occupied by the Japanese from 1941 to 1945.

A steady stream of literary giants also visited, among them Rudyard Kipling, Joseph Conrad, Hermann Hesse and W. Somerset Maugham. One can imagine them gazing out to sea, forming stories in their minds, or, linen-suited, negotiating the hubbub of George Town on their way to a bar, club or dinner dance.

More recently, the island has become a popular retirement destination for Australians, lured by its modern amenity, relatively inexpensive living costs and, of course, all its other drawcards. The Australian connection runs deep. From 1957 until 1988, The Royal Australian Air Force operated an air base at Butterworth, opposite Penang on the mainland.

Despite being long overtaken by Singapore and Hong Kong as a trading hub, Penang holds onto its reputation as the pearl of the Orient.

As we descend after the 50-minute flight from Kuala Lumpur it looks jewel-like, set in the turquoise Malacca Strait.

We have a room booked at the Eastern & Oriental Hotel, on the waterfront at George Town. Once known as one of the finest hotels east of Suez, the E&O is a firm favourite. Its rooms in the Victory Annexe offer stunning views over the pearlescent water which separates Penang from the mainland.

Opened in 2013, the annexe builds on the charm of the 138-year-old Heritage Wing. We step into the room, throw open the balcony French doors and let the heat wash over us. A photo of the room, with its highly polished dark parquetry floors and gauzy drapes is posted to Instagram and draws an almost instant response from an old colleague back in Australia: "That place is screaming out for a three-peg whisky and soda." Of course, he's right. We tend to associate gin and tonic with the tropics but as any old Asia hand will correct you, whisky and soda was the refreshing go-to drink in the sepia days of Empire.

In the distance, the 1217-metre peak of Gunung Jerai appears to hover over the haze. And out to sea, in one of the world's busiest shipping lanes, a constant stream of freighters, tankers and bulk carriers - ships of ill-repute, we joke - steam back and forth.

One of Asia's original grand hotels, the E&O is a destination in its own right. It's elegant but not stuffy, steeped in tradition but not hidebound - easy as the breeze blowing off the sea through the palms which line the seafront.

Breakfast at Sarkies Corner on the ground floor is an experience in itself - watch as your roti or noodles are cooked in front of you or put together your own nasi lemak and rendang, spicing it up with a fiery sambal. And if a Western breakfast is more your thing, load up on the seemingly endless array of offerings. But watch the time. It's easy to lose an hour or two going back for seconds or thirds.

Hours can also be soaked up by the infinity pool on the sixth floor which overlooks the water. Take up position on an impossibly comfortable sun lounge or in one of the generous rattan planter chairs, immerse yourself a couple of times, and before you know it, it's happy hour.

On the ground floor, the emporium offers a trove of E&O keepsakes, from drink coasters to monogrammed bathrobes, tangible treasures to remind guests of their stay. There's also a sizeable collection of photographic prints and art works featuring street life in George Town.

The E&O can be a little like the cruise ships which pull up each day - so luxurious it's a struggle to step out into the world. But step out we do. The lure of George Town is too powerful not to.

After the childhood memory surfaces near the docks, we wander the old British precinct, its elegant buildings whitewashed and crisp. We step into Little India, alive with Bollywood music and awash with colour. Garland makers are busy with fresh cut flowers, assembling offerings to the gods.

Sandalwood and spice lace the air. Clothes shops beckon. They're lined with walls of saris, sandals and ornate bangles. Lose yourself in these and it's easy to imagine you've been transported to Tamil Nadu.

The rich cultural tapestry is evident on the street too. In just a couple of blocks, you can find a Hindu temple, a Chinese house of worship and a mosque.

History oozes out of George Town's pores. It's in the weathered shutters of the old Chinese shophouses, the fading paint, the terracotta roof tiles. Every building seems to tell a story.

Red lanterns are strung across roads, in preparation for the New Year. One tiny lane is overhung with umbrellas to keep the rain off shoppers.

We stop to ask a Malaysian woman about the long queue she's joined. "We're here for the nasi kandar," she explains. Nasi Kandar is a dish comprising rice, curries and condiments.

"We're visiting from the mainland and the nasi kandar here is famous." She gestures to the line that's grown behind her. "All these people are from other parts of Malaysia. They all want to try the nasi kandar."

A taxi driver shares his theory about why Penang's version of the dish is so special. "It's the water," he explains. "A guy who had a restaurant here opened another in Kuala Lumpur but the nasi kandar never tasted quite the same. He sent containers of water from Penang and it came out just right."

We're relieved to discover Sam's Batiks is still operating after the COVID shutdown. Sam is still in fine form, up for a discussion about world affairs. The last time we were here, we talked about Donald Trump and the course on which he was setting the US. This time, it was the pandemic and how our respective governments had responded to it.

The hawker food market near the E&O is operating too, with stalls offering everything from traditional Penang food to Vietnamese pho and banh mi to crispy fried chicken portions at the curiously named Empire of Fried Chicken - you had better watch out, Colonel Sanders, they were delicious. We ate there every night, rarely spending more than $20 for two.

The rule of thumb is to look for locals. If the place is patronised by many, the food will be good. This place was packed every night.

Our days in Penang did as intended. They recharged and reinvigorated us and rekindled our love for this precious Asian jewel.

We vowed to return again. One day, when I've finally grown up, I might even stay.

TOP TIPS

TRIP NOTES

Getting there: AirAsia flies directly and regularly to Kuala Lumpur from Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane. Book via Airasia.com or through Expedia.com.au. Connecting flights to Penang are plentiful, departing almost every hour. It's best to book flights all together.

Staying there: The E&O can be booked through Expedia or directly via the hotel's website, eohotels.com. Prices start at $220 per night for a Victory Annexe Suite.

Explore more: mypenang.gov.my; malaysia.travel